rain and peach-pips. Bonnievale

Each of the Cape’s wine routes is different in character, and the Robertson Wine Valley has a unique charm all its own.

There’s none of that slightly “film-set” feeling one sometimes gets in Stellenbosch and Franschhoek – ancient white gables, oak trees and a rather self-conscious sense of historical importance.

The Robertson Valley’s farms are unpretentious and have a real “working” feel about them. The horses are for riding, not décor.

The homesteads are sprawling and have obviously been developed over several generations of owners.

The main road is lined with bright red and orange cannas, thorn trees and palms – bright colours everywhere. 

We left Robertson in light rain this morning – very welcome after the last two days of heat-wave. Stopped at Bon Courage to taste their MCC sparkling wine (Our tastings seem to have become focused more and more on sparkling wines here), then on to Van Loveren, which has the most beautiful gardens in the whole of the province.

Every tree, lovingly planted by Ouma Retief, has a story to tell.

I noticed several visitors who had come simply to wander under those tall tropical trees and take in the beauty of it all.

The young woman at the tasting room is obviously used to this and asked us politely, “Do you want to taste, or just wander?” 

Van Loveren produce the Four Cousins Limited Release Methode Cap Classique Brut, which is a very crisp and refreshing drink that would go perfectly with oysters.

We have discovered that Vespa scooters do not manage well on roads covered with peach pips and nut-shells, which is the way some farmers here make them.

We ride happily over gravel roads, muddy roads and corrugated roads, but those crunchy pips throw us around alarmingly.

I’m proud to report neither of us fell off.

On to Weltevrede, riding at a slow pace, just drinking in the beautiful valley scene, washed and sparkling after the morning rain.

We’re staying in a tiny converted labourer’s cottage called Belvedere in the vineyards – two en-suite bedrooms, a central living area and a little galley-kitchen.

Also a handy barbecue outside on the stoep and a good supply of vine wood in the shed.

We went into the town of Bonnievale (very rural!) to buy supplies for the evening. There’s an interesting wine shop called Tim Jan, famous for the herbal mixture of that name, made from aloe and wine.

The label recommends you take a spoonful before bed every night, but adds that pregnant women should consult their doctors before trying it.

Tomorrow we chat to Weltevrede’s winemaker Philip Jonker and taste his bubblies (this will probably be  the highlight of Ethene’s wine tour, as Philip’s sparkling wines have long been her favourite.)