Thursday, March 11, 2010

Five Stars on Route 60

Thursday evening. On the R60.

Ethene certainly wasn’t disappointed by Philip Jonker’s wines. Those MCC sparklers are absolutely superb, each in its own way. We decided there was one for every occasion, from a casual brunch ro a romantic evening and up to a grand celebratory banquet.
A couple of cases will be on their way home next week and our bank balances will be a little smaller.
I was particular interested to taste two Chardonnays, grown in different soil types, but each treated in exactly the same way from Harvesting to bottling – same time fermenting, same time on the lees, same time maturing.
They were as different as could be, which shows there’s a lot of truth in this business of “terroir.”
Weltevrede now has a fascinating maze of “underground” storage cellars hacked out of the original old concrete open fermentation tanks. We held a wonderfully atmospheric tasting down there, sipping Philip's wines by candlelight.
I hope writers in the area discover Weltevrede’s new “Writers retreat.” It’s a quiet area set aside for study and concentration, lined with hundreds of reference books and available to would-be writers who need a peaceful place to write.
Maybe the next Great South African Novel will be born there.
Then it was on to our next destination, Mardouw, which proved to be an enormously pleasant surprise.
Mardouw is a foreign-owned olive farm on the R60 highway from Robertson to Swellendam. The owners have established a truly luxurious five-star hotel here, with gracious rooms, a sparkling infinity pool and gentle service to match anything the city has to offer.
They offer hiking trails, bicycle paths, a golf driving range, angling and meals to die for.
Manager Myles Laing suggested we take a golf cart drive around, and we travelled along twisting farm tracks until we came to the edge of the devastation caused by the huge mountain fire on Monday. The farm's entertainment boma was in ruins -- just a tangle of twisted sheet iron and charred walls.
Luckily the fire was contained (by rain) just before it reached the main farm buildings or olive groves. 
Back at the hotel executive chef Paul Engle prepared a superb evening meal that started with kudu carpaccio, went on to wildebees steaks and ended with a lemon meringue tart.
With the help of front-on-house manager, Jonathan Booysen they had selected a wine to accompany each course (served by he glass and all from the Robertson area).
It was a dining experience to remember.
You won’t find Mardouw widely advertised. It’s pretty new.
But if you’re out this way and feel in need of some serious pampering, look it up.
Incidentally, all  the soaps, shampoos, lotions and creams offered in the en-suite bathrooms are made from olives produced on the farm.
Definitely worth a re-visit.





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