Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Horses and Bubbles



Robertson, Tuesday evening.
Overcast and not as searingly hot as it was yesterday, thank goodness.
I think Ethene is discovering why I enjoy being a wine writer.
It’s not so much about the wine at all. It’s about the wine people.
In 30 years of writing about wine, I don’t think I have ever met a winemaker I didn’t like.
Winemakers tend to be kind, hospitable and generous. I suppose it’s the result of living and working with one of nature’s great miracles – the creation of wine from earth and sunshine.
We dropped in on the two large co-operative wineries in the  of Robertson – Robertson Winery and Roodezandt  -- after breakfast.
What is impressive about these cellars is the sheer volume of wine they produce. Great truckloads of grapes were queueing at the receiving depots, cascades of grapes and juice poured continually into the hoppers – endless tons and tons of it.
We are told everywhere we go that production is much lower than expected this vintage.
Well, there doesn’t seem to be much of a shortage in Robertson.
I’ve always admired Robertson Winery for their pioneering efforts to change the packaging regulations governing our wines. They were the first cellar to put varietal wines into boxes. Before they won that battle with the authorities winemakers had to label boxed wines with generic names like “Dry Red” or “Late Harvest.”
Thanks to Robertson’s persistence, we can now buy Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc in boxes. Wine snobs may disapprove, but hikers, yachties and picnickers owe them for the convenience they’ve offered.
We arrived at Arabella Estate around mid-morning and were invited to stay for lunch, which turned out to be a long, chatty affair, discussing horses, politics, family history and everything else but wine.
The winery is surrounded by green paddocks where thoroughbreds and Arab horses graze, creating a picturesque backdrop to the cellar.
Arabella’s Stephen de Wet is producing some excellent, easy-drinking wines for everyday pleasure and selling them at affordable prices.
The winery has doubled in size since I was last there a few years ago.
It’s not surprising that more than half his production is bought overseas. Wine lovers the world over recognise bargains.
I particularly enjoy his Arabella Shiraz and Ethene always keeps a few bottles of his Cabernet Sauvignon on hand as her “house wine.”
Afterwards Pieter Ferreira (Mr Bubbles) invited us to Graham Beck’s Robertson cellar to sample the whole range of their Method Cap Classique sparkling wines.
From the non-vintage Graham Beck Brut and Brut Rosé, via the vintage wines to the awesome Cuvée Clive, these are delicious examples of fine bubblies and it’s easy to see why more and more people are discovering the delights of drinking bubbles as everyday fare, rather than for celebrations only.
Somehow we managed to pilot our Vespas back to the hotel, where we hear Pieter Ferreira is entertaining a French winemaker to a farewell dinner after he’s spent a vintage in the Cellar here.
This could turn out to be a long, vinous evening.




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